ЖІНОЧА МОДА РАДЯНСЬКОЇ ДОБИ


Мода – одна з найцікавіших сторін життя жінки. Ми завжди прагнемо до краси та естетики, дослухаємося до модних тенденцій, намагаємося слідувати їм. Публікація “Жіноча мода радянської доби” знайомить із спробою дослідження розвитку модних тенденцій в СРСР у 1950-1980-х рр. ХХ ст. Наукове дослідження здійснювалося в рамках Всеукраїнського конкурсу-захисту МАН ученицею Городищенського економічного ліцею Назарян Маріанною. Особливу цінність в роботі мають результати опитування та фотографії жінок, наших землячок, які жили в ті часи. Фотоматеріали представлені в додатках до повного тексту роботи, який можна переглянути за посиланням. 

Назарян Маріанна Гайківна,

учениця Городищенського економічного ліцею

Бурлака Олена Вікторівна,

учитель історії Городищенського економічного ліцею

ЖІНОЧА МОДА РАДЯНСЬКОЇ ДОБИ (1950-1980-ТІ РОКИ ХХ СТ.)

(уривки)

Радянська доба є одним із найбільш дискусійних моментів в історії. У суспільній та науковій думці немає однозначного підходу до висвітлення історії СРСР. Попри те, що, на перший погляд, є достатньо інформації з різних аспектів історії радянського суспільства, багато питань залишаються мало вивченими або недостатньо науково узагальненими. До таких належить історія невід’ємного атрибуту повсякденного життя народу – модних уподобань радянських жінок. Велику цікавість викликає жіноча мода на одяг ще й тому, що в сучасній модній індустрії досить популярним є так званий ретро-стиль, що повертає нас до модних традицій попередніх епох. До цього часу побутує думка, що мода є явищем притаманним демократичним суспільствам із розвиненою ринковою економікою та сферою послуг, а отже, в СРСР як тоталітарній державі з пріоритетним розвитком важкої промисловості та недорозвиненою сферою послуг моди як такої не було. Однак спілкування із людьми, молодість яких припадає на радянські часи, фотоджерела доводять протилежне – мода була, вона змінювалася в часі і дійсно була невід’ємним атрибутом радянської дійсності. Разом з тим, питання розвитку моди та її місця в повсякденному житті людей залишалося поза увагою науковців. Ця сторінка історії може стати «білою плямою» із втратою історичної пам’яті людей, що жили в ті часи. Актуальність обраної теми дослідження зумовлена інтересом до історії радянської повсякденності та потребою вивчення та узагальнення джерельної бази з історії розвитку жіночої моди в СРСР.

Мета дослідження полягає в тому, щоб зібрати та проаналізувати джерельну базу з історії моди в СРСР у 1950-1980-х рр. ХХ ст. і на цій базі дослідити головні чинники та особливості розвитку жіночої моди, а також визначити місце моди в житті радянського суспільства.

Історія розвитку жіночої моди в СРСР є дуже цікавою та інформативною, оскільки дозволяє краще зрозуміти, чим жили і до чого прагнули радянські люди. Вивчення даної проблеми важливе ще й тому, що зараз існує унікальне джерело знань з цієї теми – люди, які жили в ту епоху. Інформація, яку ми здобуваємо від них, дозволяє краще зрозуміти і осмислити суперечності радянської епохи. Здійснивши спробу наукового дослідження  історії жіночої моди радянських часів періоду 1950-1980-х рр. за доступними історичними джерелами, ми дійшли наступних висновків. Проблема розвитку радянської моди потребує ретельного наукового дослідження. Наявні історичні джерела є дуже інформативними, але відсутність серйозних наукових розвідок ускладнює висвітлення теми. Якість доступної в мережі Інтернет публіцистики з теми низька, хоча дуже детально висвітлені аспекти саме повсякденних модних тенденцій. Досліджені нами наукові розвідки українських науковців торкаються швидше теми «високої» моди в СРСР, і мало несуть інформації про масову жіночу моду. Унікальну інформацію несуть первинні історичні джерела з теми: спогади та фотографії. Заперечувати факт існування моди в СРСР не можна. Результати дослідження підтверджують, що мода була важливим соціокультурним явищем радянської доби. Історія розвитку модного процесу відповідала загальній концепції моди, просто радянська мода мала ряд особливостей, зумовлених специфікою політичних та економічних процесів у державі. Мода в СРСР формувалась, хоч і з запізненням, але в контексті світових модних процесів. Водночас специфіку модного процесу в Радянському Союзі визначали своєрідні чинники. Передусім, контролююча державна політика, метою якої було обмежити вплив Заходу на свідомість і побут громадян. Не маючи змоги протистояти модним тенденціям, держава здійснювала цілеспрямовану інформаційну політику в галузі моди, дозуючи інформацію, популяризуючи вигідні для себе тенденції. Потреба пропаганди радянського способу життя за кордоном в умовах холодної війни змушувала радянське керівництво виставляти на міжнародних виставках та подіумах досягнення радянських модельєрів. Ці контакти, безумовно, мали величезний вплив на модні тенденції в СРСР шляхом поширення західних впливів. Істотним гальмуючим  чинником був хронічний дефіцит матеріалів у індустрії моди, низька якість продукції одержавленої легкої промисловості, знецінення творчих досягнень модельєрів контролем різноманітних адміністративних органів та гонитвою за кількісними показниками виробництва. Водночас це було стимулом для  творчих пошуків і художників-модельєрів, і звичайних громадян. Боротьба з державною машиною, що не задовольняла попиту громадян на красу побуту, породжувала цікаві ідеї та альтернативні шляхи задоволення модних потреб. Аналіз розвитку моди в СРСР засвідчує, що радянська мода формувалась на перетині цілого ряду ідей, якими керувалися зацікавлені сторони. З одного боку прагнення держави нав’язати суспільству образ скромного будівника комунізму призводило до збіднення асортименту одягу та аксесуарів. З іншого боку, боротьба жінок проти сірості радянського побуту, художньо-мистецькі пошуки модельєрів призводили до появи яскравих явищ у світі радянської моди. Варто зазначити, що оригінальні тенденції в моді формувалися під впливом народних традицій (фольклорні мотиви) та взаємозв’язків із розмаїтим світом західної моди. Дослідження фотоматеріалів та спогадів радянських жінок підтверджує факт модної динаміки в СРСР. Спостерігається зміна модних тенденцій за десятиліттями, хоча із запізненнями відносно провідних світових тенденцій. Разом з тим, дослідження первинних історичних джерел підтверджує значні матеріальні труднощі радянських модниць. Бути модною в СРСР означало бути винахідливою, умілою в рукоділлі, сміливою у прагненні мати власний образ, готовою протистояти радянським стереотипам. Динаміку модних процесів досліджуваного періоду можна означити так:   1950-1960-ті роки повільний рух, зумовлений бідністю, особливо на селі;                  1970-1980-ті рр. – прискорення модних процесів у зв’язку із зростанням контактів із Заходом, вирівнювання сільської та міської моди.


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